Down in the far west of Cornwall, a few miles from Penzance, there is a field near St Buryan with a ring of grey stones standing in it. There are nineteen of them, none much taller than a child, set out evenly in a circle like people holding hands for a dance. In Cornish the place was called Dans Maen, the stone dance. In English it has another name: the Merry Maidens.
Across the road, in the fields on the other side, stand two much bigger stones, tall granite pillars more than twice the height of a grown man. They are called the Pipers. And the people who lived round about had a story that tied the ring and the pillars together.
Long ago, they said, one Sunday evening, some of the girls from the village nearby didn't go to evening prayers as they should have done. Instead they wandered off into the fields. There they met two pipers, who began to play dance tunes.
The music was hard to resist. The girls forgot that it was Sunday, the holy day, and they began to dance. The pipers played faster, and the girls danced faster, until the music and the dancing grew wild.
But the pipers weren't really pipers at all. According to Robert Hunt, who wrote the story down in 1865, they were two evil spirits in disguise, who had come to tempt the girls into breaking the Sabbath. And suddenly, out of a clear sky, there came a flash of lightning. It struck them all, the dancers and the musicians together, and turned every one of them to stone.
So there they are still. The nineteen maidens stand in their ring, just where they were dancing, and the two Pipers stand in the field across the road, where they were playing.
Not everyone told the ending in quite the same way. Some said that the moment the pipers saw the girls beginning to turn to stone, they took to their heels and ran. But it did them no good. The power that had caught the maidens caught up with the Pipers too, a little way off, and turned them to stone where they now stand.
If you go to the circle, you can stand in the middle of the ring and look across the road to the Pipers. Then try counting the maidens. It is said that no one who counts stones like these ever gets the same number twice.





